Free beach on the Trieste coast
Among the blue of the sky, the white of the rock, the green of the Mediterranean scrubland
What it is and where it is
A sign on the Coastal Road, in a defiladed position near a scenic parking lot, indicates a path to the sea. It is a rather winding and in a state of disrepair stairway, which faces a significant drop and, through lush and sometimes wild vegetation, leads to one of the most secret stretches of swimmable coastline on the Trieste Coast. Waiting for the visitor are usually few people, and sometimes no one at all. The beach stretches for less than 200 meters, alternating rather large pebbles with boulders smoothed by wind and water. From here the view sweeps to the two castles-Miramare and Duino-that mark the beginning and end of the Trieste Coast proper. Farther on, Trieste with the Rive and the karst heights of the southeast.
Why it is special
If access into the water is not the easiest because of the rather large stones, once you get your feet off the bottom, every effort is repaid. The aromas, colors, and sounds of the sea and the shapes of the landscape give pleasure to all the senses, and it is a pleasure enjoyed only by the few who reach this beach. Coming out of the water, no shower and no bar, but the feeling that you don't need one after all. Or not right away. Especially when the water, due to the favorable play of currents and winds, is as pure as if gushing from an invisible underwater spring.
Not to be missed
When conditions are favorable, the water has a rare transparency. Snorkeling, between the rocky first part and the sandy part further offshore, can be exhilarating: like moving through a natural aquarium.
Although it is devoid of man-made structures-except for a small private pier to the east and a sea slide to the west-paradoxically, it will be almost easier for a normal swimmer to reach the charming little port of Santa Croce to the east by sea than from the Coast Road. In addition, there are some curious things on the beach. One is a nail driven into a boulder a few meters from the water, the origin and function of which escapes us. And then there are two artistic prodigies of nature: a hollowed-out boulder, which looks like an archaic basin; and another, in which the elements have carved a sinuous heart.
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