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Mossa, in the heart of eastern Friuli - 1 DI 3

Move between nature and history

Landscapes and stories from the rural world

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Where is

Friuli-Venezia Giulia

34070 Mossa GO, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

Directions
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In the heart of the Isonzo plain

A little further east of Gorizia, in the Isonzo plain, one encounters a generous countryside, tended by its inhabitants with care and love, as if it were part of the family. There is one spot in particular, where the cultivated fields little by little fade into an expanse of green, embraced by hills with gentle slopes adorned with fragrant vineyards, and furrowed by canals and streams sparkling like pretty silver necklaces: this, is the territory of Mossa, a small municipality with an agrarian vocation that sits in the midst of so much beauty.

Discovering the village

Mossa is a rural village that seems to take us back in time, and not, as is often meant by this expression, to a distant Middle Ages, where the village was surrounded by medieval walls, stone alleys and echoes of ancient lineages, no... that of Mossa, is a whole different story. Here time rewinds, but not whirling, rather it moves gently, so much it has to take only a few steps backwards, towards that more human and simpler Italy of a few decades ago, when the villages in the countryside were not very big, they were placed in the middle of nature without disturbing it, creating a town capable of fading little by little into the fields and hills. Here, this is Mossa, made up of buildings that with their essentiality give the settlement an aura with a warm, traditional flavor, where it is really impossible not to feel at home. And in fact, one soon learns to recognize the streets, to find "The Baker" of the village, or "The Florist," activities that those who live in big cities take for granted, there are so many of them... but here there is only one of each type, so when you enter, the baker immediately becomes a friend, the florist, a trusted advisor, and the feeling of having always been a part of these lands pervades even the most timid visitor.

01-veduta.jpgSunset view of Mossa

Ancient roots and rural histories

This settlement boasts a long history, evidenced by archaeological finds dating back to pre-Roman times, and then moving on to documents from the first decades of the 11th century that mention the village as Mossa. But here, more than the history of the village itself, it is nice to go and rediscover what it was like and how the lives of the inhabitants have changed over time. For example, at Villa Codelli, as the name anticipates (the Codellis are an ancient family of Mossa, who played key roles in the development of the village), we set out on the trail of the village's elite. The headquarters of the winery is an elegant 16th-century villa that still keeps alive the memory of its castle-like past: slightly displaced from the main body, in fact, is a rustic-looking tower that still seems to stand to protect the manor house. Passing by to take a look at the tower allows one to walk through centuries of history in just a few steps, admiring the evolution of the lordly life of the place: from the tower to the villa, passing through the chapel adjoining the building, built at the end of the 1500s and rebuilt two centuries later. But in Mossa, it was agriculture that reigned supreme, and many activities related to it also took place in Villa Codelli. Today this is told to us by a folatoio, an ancient agricultural tool that is beautifully displayed in a well-preserved room that has gone from a place of work to an elegant setting for parties and events. What can we say, this is also evolving history!

02-torre.jpgThe tower of villa Codelli

What about the simple people?

The farmers, the artisans, those who shaped these fields and vineyards with their own hands? After all, history is made of the deeds and legacies of the rich and powerful, but what about the others? Here in Mossa there is a rather interesting way to get to know them, since with a little imagination, one could almost feel oneself in their shoes. Just pass by the Vecchie Province restaurant, which keeps inside a room lined with wooden benches, in the center of which towers a large hearth, capable of warming the whole room and the people gathered in it. And immediately you can feel the atmosphere of a time long ago, when the cold was intense and the fields asleep under the winter frost, and people gathered to exchange a few words while waiting for spring. A bit like what happened at Trattoria Blanch, which already in the late 1800s welcomed every evening farmers returning from the field, who took advantage of the inn to treat themselves to a moment of leisure. It really seems that time has forgotten to flow here, and it is tempting to linger a little longer in the hope of hearing old tales, perhaps from some regular patrons, but the road beckons, and that's when you lace up your shoes well, or strap on your bicycle, and ride past the last houses, heading for Preval.

04-preval.jpgSunset over the Preval

The wonderful expanse of the Preval

The Preval Plain is a little Eden embraced by hills. A moist and fertile land that is cloaked in green meadows, so fresh and lush that they seem to glow with their own light. A few glimmers can actually be caught among the vegetation: these are gullies, small man-made streams, refreshing and cheerful. These lands where crops alternate with forests, do not count many buildings, leaving the eyes of those who visit them running ecstatic in this sea of emerald.

Those who enjoy spending time cycling or walking in the midst of nature cannot help but fall hopelessly in love with the Preval Valley. Here, bountiful nature is accompanied by centuries of history and art, man and landscape come together as one, creating a fortunate combination that is well represented by the fragrant wines of this land. You are already packing your travel bag, aren't you? Do well, the Preval bike trails are waiting for you! Immerse yourself in the heart of Collio and have fun!

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