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Wonder
Wonder  }  Culture

Motta Square and its rococo treasures

When the square becomes the heart of a community

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Where is

Lombardia

Piazza della Motta, 21100 Varese VA, Italia (0m s.l.m.)

Directions
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What it is and where it is

Motta Square once stood on the edge of Varese's Borgo and was home to Europe's most important horse market. Today it is a hub of beauty and tradition for the city. The centerpiece of the square is the precious Church of St. Anthony Abbot, surrounded by beautiful historic buildings that make up the wing. It is a must, when you are in the square, to also pop inside the church: there is something to feast your eyes on!

Why it is special

According to legend, St. Anthony Abbot descended into the underworld to steal fire and give it to men by burning a pyre. On the night of January 16-17, a centuries-old tradition brings the cult of the saint back to the square and a huge bonfire is lit to commemorate his gift to men. The next morning, however, the square is filled with animals: a special celebration is dedicated to their blessing in front of the churchyard.

Not to be missed

The facade of the church of St. Anthony Abbot is rather sober, punctuated by four pilasters, a main door and two smaller side doors. But the interior is a hymn to Rococo, amid precious frescoes by Ronchelli, the many canvases hanging on the walls, a 17th-century wooden statue of the saint with the Baby Jesus... Also contributing to the wonder are Giuseppe Baroffio's astonishing 18th-century architectural plays in the illusionistic representations of parapets, balconies, domes and colonnades.

A bit of history

The square is located on a small hill called Motta: hence its name. Since the Middle Ages, the town market has been held here every Monday and, annually, the horse market. The construction of the church dates back to the 16th and 17th centuries, with work starting in 1593 by Giuseppe Bernasconi.

Curiosities

Overlooking the square is a turret on which stands the oldest sundial in Varese. In the center, above the gnomon, is painted the god Bacchus holding a goblet of wine. There is no shortage of surprises around the square, either: in Via Carrobbio, which leads to the square, there are some ancient courtyards, once owned by high-ranking families, decorated with admirable frescoes.

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Comune di Varese

Alleys and historic buildings open onto the square framed by the greenery of the nearby Estensi Gardens and the majestic church of St. Anthony, which becomes the heart of the community on its feast day.

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