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Osteria del Sole, since 1465

Wine has been drunk here for 550 years, but food is brought from home

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Where is

Emilia-Romagna

Vicolo Ranocchi, 1, 40124 Bologna BO, Italia (68m s.l.m.)

Directions
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What it is and where it is

In the Quadrilateral, the beating heart of the city under the Towers, at Osteria del Sole you've been drinking wine since 1465, but you bring your food from home. The wooden counter not only dispenses full barrels, with familiar and comforting gestures, as many small glasses as you want, but also that feeling of being part of something bigger, which starts from afar and will not cease to flow under your feet.

Why it's special

At Osteria del Sole you enjoy the pleasure of sitting in company around a bottle and emptying it little by little, stretching your sips with chatter and wetting your throats with sincere laughter, together with students coming out of an exam or old men who have seen it all. It is not hard to believe that in places like this, where one arrives by word of mouth and returns after renting a corner of one's memory, it is the walls, the tables, the ceilings that direct the conversation, and that one joins the spirit of the place, following its moods. But also feeding it with one's own history.

Not to be missed

There is also beer, and to eat, the neighborhood is packed with stores of all kinds. But if hunger comes after the wine, the more experienced will advise you: walk out the door to one of the nearby stores, there ask for a sandwich, taste the flavors of the earth, count how many ways you can bake a loaf of bread or hang a ham on the wall; while waiting, ask the reason for all those products on the paper placemats; then pocket the sandwich and come back here to finish the talk.

A bit of history

Five hundred fifty years and feel them all. On the counter are those who swear to count the years etched by elbows leaning like circles in the tree section. A sign from the fascist years forbids spitting on the floor (who knows if certain ideas were born from the blows to the head from slips on the spit of Osteria patrons). Another intimates to consume before setting out to play (dated 1968, when ideas were many but change for wine few).

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Giacomo Confortin

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