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Wonder
Wonder  }  Theater

Witches' Night at Castel del Monte

Magic and legends in the heart of the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park

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Where is

Abruzzo

Viale della Vittoria, 67023 Castel del Monte AQ, Italia (1,333m s.l.m.)

Directions
map

What it is and where it is

In the heart of the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park, in a wild and unspoiled natural setting, stands the ancient village of Castel del Monte, protecting and guarding all the surrounding valleys. As we approach the village we are greeted by the watchful and stern gaze of wonderful Abruzzese Shepherds, dogs that for centuries have accompanied the lives of the castellans in the activities of shepherding and caring for the flocks. As we proceed into the village, through its narrow streets and arches, known as "sporti," we are catapulted into distant eras and are seized by a sense of distant familiarity and welcome...

Why it is special

The stones of the houses preserve the memories of past centuries. One can almost sense that here, in ancient times, when someone fell ill, they were thought to have been cursed by witches. These, entering the houses through the locks, sucked the vital energies of the poor unfortunate. In order to heal from their evil spells, the castellans used to go around the village at midnight passing under seven "sporte": in total silence, the christening mistress with the other women of the family would carry the sick creature in her arms. Sometimes a miraculous healing would happen, reinforcing the belief in the magical ritual called "ru rite de' re sette sporte."

Not to be missed

The theatrical performance "The Night of the Witches," traveling along the streets of the medieval village, retraces precisely this richly evocative village tradition. Walking for an hour or so through the alleys magically illuminated by candles and plays of light, the spectator stops at specific points where actors perform who, through realistic performances enact not only the magic rite, but many customs of peasant and rural life that have been lost in time.

A bit of history

For 25 years, the theater show has been entertaining tourists and villagers to revive the memory of this ancient village ritual concerning witches and the evocative rite to exorcise them. The idea was born in 1996 at the behest of Mayor Mario Basile, a great lover of culture. In addition to being an intense moment of cultural entertainment, the initiative is an opportunity to preserve and hand down the folkloric and traditional culture of the village.

Trivia

During the event you can taste local food and wine products. Among them, don't miss the Canestrato di Castel del Monte, an exceptionally tasty sheep's milk cheese, a Slow Food Presidium, best accompanied by a strong local wine. Save room for the Fiadone though: a thin pastry shell containing a filling of cheese and/or ricotta and eggs.

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Recommended by
Barbara Gizzi

In a world as technological and global as the one we live in, the loss of local traditions and customs is a real risk. There is, however, much that can be done to remedy it, and no, it does not have to be a museum or a manual.

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