Ruffo Castle, lookout over the Strait, symbol of Scylla
From the legendary Tyrrhenians, who first garrisoned the Promontory, to the Ruffo family, who made it the stronghold of their own household
Where
What it is and where it is Castello Ruffo
There are places predestined by their very nature, and the Scillèo promontory, wanting to use its courtly name, is one of them: imposing and granitic, leaning toward a stretch of sea of Homeric suggestions, it could only become its high garrison. This applies, all the more so, to the castle that towers above it giving the impression of being its natural offshoot, looming, grim, composite, as if it had gradually sprung from its bowels. A true genius loci, it generates admiration and a reverential awe that is nevertheless overcome by the desire to look out from its terraces and admire the Strait from the vantage point most steeped in history and myth.
A bit of history
The castle epitomizes the entire history of Scylla. It is difficult to say who first permanently occupied the promontory, most likely the Tyrrhenians, an appellation the Greeks gave to the Etruscans, appreciating them as traders. The first documented fortification - Strabo speaks of it - was precisely the Magna-Greek one wanted by Anassilaos, tyrant of Reggio, in order to have full control of the Strait and a harbor of refuge at its entrance; then came the Romans, Byzantines, gradually up to the Normans and then the Angevins. Fateful passage, the year 1533, when the Ruffo of Calabria, who for better or worse were long protagonists of local history, took up residence there. Other pivotal moments, the earthquakes of 1783 and 1908, especially the latter, which put it under great strain. Having become state property, after also serving in recent years as a youth hostel, it is now home to a cultural foundation and a venue for conferences and events.
Why it is special: a vast panorama suspended over history and myth
A beautiful climb leads to the bridge beyond which a pointed arch bears the Ruffo coat of arms, marked by three shells. The shell, symbol of the pilgrim, here to recall participation in as many crusades. One goes up, one goes up, and what really rewards is theview: evocative glimpses, through feritorie and finestrelle, and then very wide views, from Cape Peloro, the northeastern apex of Sicily, to Cape Vaticano, beyond the Costa Viola, with the outline of the Aeolian Islands on the horizon, flying over the opposing seaside districts: the Marina Grande with its long falcata beach, and Chianalea, with its colorful seaside palace. Unforgettable scenery, especially at sunset with the two coasts dappled with lights. The castle itself contributes to it with the lighthouse it bears at the top.
Not to be missed: the castle and swordfish fishing
Finally, under a wide vault, the encounter you do not expect, a boat that at first glance betrays the peculiarity of its function: long and slender, with a mizzen mast, but not for a sail, rather for a lookout; four scales for the oars, two of them, towards the stern, protruding, a detail that hints at the intensity of rowing; and props at the bow, the profile of which can be explained by the dynamics of swordfish fishing by harpoon strokes, but the one that was once practiced , by force of arms alone, on a par with the fish. On the label, the name "luntre," a word of Latin etymology that from a generic nautical term has come to refer only to this very special fishing spear (although there are those who argue that about swordfish one should properly speak of 'hunting').
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The Map thanks:
Scilla, dove peschiamo sorrisi – Comune di Scilla – PNRR Ministero della Cultura M1C3, Mis. 2, Inv. 2.1 “Attrattività dei borghi storici” – Finanziato dall’Unione europea, NextGenerationEU – CUP: F79I22000150006 – CIG B8DCA761AB
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